Imani Cohen believes the food on her plate should be as vibrant as the life she wants to manifest. Her trips to the farmers market each Saturday reflect this, where she searches for bright greens, purples, and oranges, steering away from dull or starchy dishes. This weekly ritual not only nourishes her family but also aligns with her vision for holistic health and energy.
“My relationship with food has expanded as my relationship with self,” Cohen shared. “It is a reflection of my self love. Food is one of the ways we can spiritually and emotionally empower ourselves and gain control over our lives and autonomy.”
Cohen’s upbringing in South Central Los Angeles meant that farm-to-table eating wasn’t part of her experience. Many of the fresh vegetables her mother loved to cook with weren’t easily found nearby. This lack of access is what inspired her friend Olympia Auset to launch SÜPRMARKT in 2020. What started as a pop-up in front of KAOS, an art and education space in Leimert Park, has grown into the first vegan grocery store in South Central Los Angeles, opening its doors in July 2024.
Auset was driven by the glaring lack of grocery stores in Crenshaw. With only three markets serving a six-mile radius, many residents traveled long distances just to find fresh produce. “It’s out of our way,” Auset explains, recalling how trips to Manhattan Beach or Marina Del Rey were often necessary to buy quality food.
SÜPRMARKT now sits at 3526 West Slauson Avenue, offering a calming, welcoming atmosphere. The cozy space, housed in a small stand-alone building, feels more like a home than a grocery store. Patrons can relax on the patio, while inside, soft reggae music plays under the glow of aqua walls. Fresh fruits and vegetables line the shelves, and the open kitchen serves healthy vegan meals like gumbo and cornbread. The market also accepts various community-assistance programs, making it easier for families to afford nutritious foods.
Opening the store wasn’t without hurdles. Auset faced skepticism and even discrimination. One distributor laughed at the idea of selling vegan ice cream in South Central, while others denied her service altogether, citing safety concerns. “I have had people do a lot of really weird things when we were going through our permit process,” Auset recounts.
Auset continues to push for awareness around food deserts and the systemic issues that create them. The stakes are high, with nearly two million Los Angeles residents facing food insecurity. Auset views this as a critical issue. “Food is the most culturally accepted form of genocide. It kills more people than gun violence,” she states.
Farmers markets are one solution Cohen promotes to address food inequality. She highlights the Crenshaw Farmers Market, operated by Food Access LA, which brings fresh produce and artisan goods to the area. Monthly events at the market feature cooking demonstrations and tastings, drawing attention to healthy eating options.
Alongside Cohen and Auset, other community leaders are making an impact. Darin Diggs, founder of Imani Gardens, regularly hosts farmers pop-ups offering fresh fruits and vegetables. “I lost 65 lbs by adapting my body to foods that are made for us,” Diggs shares, emphasizing the importance of reconnecting with natural foods.
Auset remains focused on the long-term goal—keeping her community healthy and alive. “Statistics are not just numbers, they’re actual people. I don’t want to go to my friend’s funeral when we’re 40,” she says.
Through SÜPRMARKT and other grassroots efforts, Cohen, Auset, and Diggs continue to reshape South Central Los Angeles, one fresh meal at a time.
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