H&M and Zara Implicated in Brazilian Environmental Destruction

According to Earthsight’s “Fashion Crimes” report, H&M and Zara sourced cotton from two major Brazilian agribusinesses, SLC Agricola and the Horita Group. These firms have been implicated in severe environmental and ethical violations, including massive deforestation, land grabbing, and corruption. Despite these practices, the cotton was misleadingly certified as ethical by the Better Cotton initiative, highlighting significant oversight failures within the certification system.

The Earthsight investigation, which utilized satellite imagery, court documents, shipment records, and undercover probes, found that from 2014 to 2023, over 816,000 tonnes of cotton were exported from these controversial farms. This cotton was then supplied to eight Asian manufacturers that produce clothing for the aforementioned retail brands.

The Cerrado, often described as the world’s most biodiverse savanna, has seen rapid degradation due to the encroachment of agribusiness. Over 100,000 hectares of its native vegetation have been cleared in the pursuits of cotton farming—activities heavily fined and repeatedly penalized by Brazilian authorities.

Brazil, a leading global exporter of beef, soybeans, and now cotton, faces critical scrutiny over its environmental policies. The Cerrado’s plight reflects broader issues of governance, with local communities often stripped of their lands amid murky legal battles and questionable enforcement.

In response to the mounting evidence, Better Cotton has committed to an independent audit of these allegations, promising transparency in its findings. Both Inditex, the parent company of Zara, and H&M have urged for full disclosure, acknowledging the gravity of the claims. Meanwhile, the Brazilian Cotton Producers’ Association has defended its practices, although their rebuttals have not been widely accepted.

This incident serves as a stark reminder of the complex, often hidden impacts of global fashion consumption on environmental sustainability and ethical practices.

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